Delicious

28th February 2014

One of my favourite designers from last years RCA fashion was Xiao Li and it is fantastic to see her debut during LFW was so well executed - evolving her techniques and silhouettes.

The foamy exaggerated puffy, almost ice cream forms have evolved into more recognisable iconic forms taking inspiration from denim and also perhaps a little bit of inspiration from the techniques employed by Hannah Williams.

The colours are refreshingly not winter and the materiality is exquisite and she is certainly one to continue watch.





The Unseen by Lauren Bowker







Stone Island


Kerry Wallace


Added Experience

25th February 2014

With the word 'wearables' on the technologists lips many fashion designers are moving gently into the space between fashion and tech.

Rather than adding in unwanted experiences to apparel such as twitter feeds emblazoning dresses, designers are looking to a more sensitive approach to how to add an extra element of sensuality, experience and design.

Interestingly during this round of fashion weeks two projects have both explored the realms of Thermo Reactive colour change inks.

Alexander Wang during NYFW created a buzz with his outfits that started off a dark green but changed to yellow, lime, purple and blue whilst Lauren Bowker for The Unseen during LFW took a more dramatic approach by using fire to color change her leather pieces.

As the heat from the fire touched the material the colours changed exposing green and purple tones.

Using thermo-reactive technology in garments is not in itself new for those who remember the global hypercolour t shirts from the 90's and a more recent foray with the technology from stone Island, but less know is pioneer Kerry Wallace - Textile Futures Alumni who explored motion response sportswear in 2006 investigating wearable displays and responsive apparel using thermochromic and liquid crystal inks via analogue methods.




MSGM


MSGM


Marco Rambaldi


Marni


Prada


New Realities

24th February 2014

With the financial crisis continuing and polarising the rich and the poor, creating an undercurrent of fear and with safety nets being put in place to safeguard ourselves, we need an outlet and fashion and design seems to be it.

A place to give way to the absurd and the excessive - what we thought we knew will be turned on its head in entirely new ways. We are already seeing design without boundaries, taste being pushed to its extremes and in a sense it is truly liberating.

Colour and pattern no longer adheres to any rules, form is not restricted and winter vs summer season is surely an historical over sight.

Artists such as Alex Chinneck with his slumping and upside down houses and Leandro Erlich with his mirrored facade are examples of where the absurd is all around us, but fashion is also embracing this where patterns clash, materials traditionally for night and day mix and the rules appear to no longer exist. Taste is questionable and fashion is fragrantly excessive.











Haute Bacon

21st February 2014

Materiologist Amy Congdon is exploring the decellularising of bacon and is re working it into a potential luxury material combined with bone powder and pearls for future luxury accessories.

The decellularisation process (developed for regenerative medicine purposes that involves removing the cells from an organ) leaves behind the extracellular matrix which Amy then puts through a series of textile techniques such as dyeing, tanning and weaving.

Exploring the boundary between fashion and biotechnological processes Amy is pushing the materiality of future fashion in a synthetic biology future.

Considering the potential of these accessories as extensions of our biological makeup as skin grafts and body modifications evolve she has also designed a series of speculative skin care products.

The ‘A.C. Skin Care Range' is an extension of her previous Biological Atelier work and are made up of the Graft Cleanser, Graft Toner, Graft Moisturiser, Bio-Skin Glue, Anti-Synth Bacterial Cream and Syn-Skin Treatment.

Amy's work was recently shown during the Big Data materials exhibition at Central St Martins as well as at the Envie/Alive exhibiton in Paris last summer.

Anita Hirlekar


Anita Hirlekar


Anita Hirlekar


Graham Fan


Graham Fan


Serena Gili


Serena Gili


Jessica Mort


Jessica Mort


Jessica Mort


Jessica Mort


Drew Henry


Drew Henry


Drew Henry


Drew Henry


Multi Fabrication Fashion

21st February 2014

Multi fabrication textile experimentation was a key trend for the Central St Martins 2014 Ma Graduate show with designers mixing up beautifully embroidered knits, appliqué dresses and pony skin.

Here are some of my favourites showcasing the amazing material developments with a particular favourite being Anita Hirlekar who's use of textile techniques is extraordinary.

About


I use this blog as a notebook of inspirations – I post things I see and like and thoughts of mine. I don't revolve around a singular topic and neither does this blog. Everything and anything is relevant


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