Oversized abstraction

25th February 2011

Central St Martins show during London Fashion week is always inspirational but this years show seemed to have an added sophistication and future vision.

Continuing to push the boundaries of abstracting the figure, clothes in many cases sat away from the body offering almost graphic contrasts with form and shape.

Colour was also key - moving away from last year where muted and pale were key (think Lilly Heine) - instead this year we have a riot of colour and an almost misfit appeal. Appliques and textured fabrics offered an outrageous modesty offering a glimpse into a new vision of dress

Many of the silhouettes were exaggerated continuing the growing trend for oversized especially in the case of the menswear, but my favourite collection was the bold and simple shapes by Rejina Pyo who's mix of simple shapes and contrasting materials as well as bright colours mixed with natural slate were just beautiful.

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21st Century bodies

18th February 2011

Questioning the ethics of bio technology, cloning and stem cell research is Natsai Chieza. Exploring through a series of materials explorations as well as through collaborations with scientists in the laboratory Chieza is engaging us in a provocational discussion about the future of subcultures and mutations.

Working with 3 scenarios on which she is building a vision of a potential future she imagines the aesthetics of bio subcultures who engage with synthetic biology and stem cell design to create entirely new mutations with their bodies.

Her “Parasitic Prosthesis” takes another perspective seeing us living symbiotically with home cultured parasites. These new micro eco systems become integrated into our worlds and our reliance on them increases.

Her most contentious debate is around the idea of “Biocollectables” suggesting a future where there is a market place for genetic information and products derived from harvested renewable body parts.


Working with PhD student Lottie Davies under the supervision of the professor of microbiology, Dr John Ward, at University College London Chieza is exploring this potential crafting with various bacterium and is amongst a growing collection of designer thinkers who immerse themselves in the field of science and design.

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Biological atelier

3rd February 2011

Textile designer Amy Congdon's work is particularly pertinent during couture week - hypothosising about a future whereby the worlds of bio tech and textiles collide she envisions a time when we will be able to grow, craft and graft our own fashion.

Based on her knowledge of current research in the area of bio technology, 3D printing and digital embroidery that is already used to build scaffolds for body parts - she projects a future probe into what that may mean to consumers and designers alike.

Will we graft our accessories from our own bones or extend our skin into our dresses for a truly personal couture?

Graduating from Textile Futures in June later this year Amy is one of a series of designers who are bridging the divide between science and design as we evolve from a decade of technology into a decade of science.

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Delicious Valentino

2nd February 2011

Valentino is not a design house I would have usually been inspired by, but in recent seasons their direction of taking exquisitely pretty and giving it an interesting twist through proportion and form has put it completely on my radar.

This SS11 Couture collection yet again offers a pretty intrigue with the transparent volume and the skin like dress that appears as if the models own skin is peeling off to create her own personal couture.

Perhaps Valentino are quietly making references to the future of couture? Our own biological atelier? More on that in an up and coming post!

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Maison Martin Margiela

1st February 2011

Not usually one to disappoint I love the couture collection by Maison Martin Margiela and the evolution from the rigid cardboard cut out forms from his SS11 collection to this prettied up offering of minimalism meets maxamilism.

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About


I use this blog as a notebook of inspirations – I post things I see and like and thoughts of mine. I don't revolve around a singular topic and neither does this blog. Everything and anything is relevant


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